Woodlot Trail (Oxon Cove Park & Oxon Hill Farm, MD)

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Woodlot Trail, Oxon Cove Park & Oxon Hill Farm, February 2019

The Woodlot Trail is a short, one-way nature hike in Maryland’s Oxon Cove Park that—despite being within striking distance of Washington, DC—makes for a surprisingly scenic walk. Meandering in and out of wooded ravines, the hilly traverse follows a deep-cutting stream behind Oxon Hill Farm, ending back at the parking area.

Woodlot Trail Oxon Cove Park hike information

The hike

The main attraction of Oxon Cove Park is Oxon Hill Farm, a family-friendly farm owned and operated by the National Park Service. Behind the pig pens and chicken coops, however, is a dense forest, crisscrossed by a pair of hiking trails. The longer Hiker-Biker Trail begins at the parking area off Bald Eagle Road, while the shorter Woodlot Trail starts further into the park, past the Visitor Center and heart of the farm.

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Oxon Hill Farm

To access the Woodlot Trail, walk from the parking lot roughly ¼ mile to the Visitor Center. Then, upon exiting the building, bear left and follow the path as it winds westward, taking the second left. Continue down the gravel road until it enters the woods; the marked trail begins on your right.

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Start of Woodlot Trail

From the gravel road, the Woodlot Trail drops sharply, a rapid change from the level stroll through Oxon Hill Farm. Fallen leaves congregate here in masses in the late autumn and winter, making for a potentially slippery descent. Within about 150 yards, the trail levels off as the dipping ravine gives way to a relatively flat basin. The yellow-blazed path passes a small and unused brick structure on the left and then crosses an unnamed but perennial stream, the primary natural centerpiece of the hike.

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Brick house and stream beyond

This mossy basin is extremely pleasant, but onward hikers must move on past the wooden bridge over the creek. Here the path begins to ascend sharply, almost switchbacking up a bulging, wooded slope. After leveling off again, the trail hugs the east flank of a deep-cut ravine and crosses a second bridge (over a tributary of the main creek), with the structures of Oxon Hill Harm visible through the trees to the west and south. Pay close attention to the yellow blazes, which offer passage in the absence of a clear path.

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Primary stream along the Woodlot Trail

At about 4/10 mile—around which the way is most obscured—the route bears left, climbing another hillside to work its way out of the ravine. After crossing another tributary, the trail climbs a set of steep stairs, leading to a final push out into the open—the woods give way to an open pasture at around the ½-mile point.

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Woodlot Trail

From here, bear right on the faint path, meeting up with a gravel road. The parking area is visible up ahead. Continue for around 100 yards, passing a quaint picnic area under a mammoth oak on the left, to the parking lot—the end of the short hike. (Note: It is best to complete the Woodlot Trail after exploring the farm because it connects back to the picnic area.)

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Picnic area

Posted in Easy Hikes, Maryland | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Hogback Mountain Loop (Shenandoah National Park, VA)

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Hogback Mountain Loop, Shenandoah National Park, February 2019

At 3,474 feet, Hogback Mountain is the highest peak in the North District of Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park. Although the summit is not accessible by trail, the modest Hogback Mountain Loop offers fine vistas looking north across Shenandoah Valley to nearby Massanutten Mountain. There is also a pleasant creek crossing at Piney Branch to top off the pleasant half-day circuit hike, which takes about 3-5 hours.

Hogback Mountain Loop trail hike information Shenandoah

Hogback Mountain Loop trail hike map Shenandoah

Map of Hogback Mountain Loop, Shenandoah National Park; created using National Geographic Maps/AllTrails, alltrails.com (Check out the PDF version, interactive map, and MapMyHike track)

The hike

There are a few options for where to begin the Hogback Mountain Loop, but the starting point closest to Dickey Ridge Visitor Center and Washington, DC is Keyser Run Trailhead, situated at about Mile Marker 22 on Skyline Drive. Turn into the parking lot here, where there are several spaces—although they are likely to fill up on a busy day, as this also doubles as the trailhead for the popular Little Devils Stairs Trail Loop.

Start the hike by leaving the parking area and crossing Skyline Drive to the north. Here hikers will catch a short, 70-yard connector to the Appalachian Trail (AT), America’s most famous long-distance path. Take a left on this white-blazed track, which bears west and gradually climbs the slopes of Little Hogback Mountain, Hogback’s shorter but scenic cousin.

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Initial climb on the Appalachian Trail

Like most of the park, this section runs through a dense forest, obscuring most views. As the trail gains elevation, however, hikers will be able to peek through the trees to catch a glimpse of the Shenandoah Valley unfolding to the north and west.

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View of Hogback Mountain (3,474′) from Little Hogback viewpoint

At about 1/3 mile, the AT levels off and then winds its way to the first true viewpoint of the hike: a small outcrop of rocks forms a perch overlooking the Browntown Valley, itself a segment of the broader Shenandoah Valley. Off to the west is the hulking mass of Hogback Mountain (3,474’)—the hike’s next destination to come. North of Hogback, the tree-laced slopes form Gimlet Ridge, which sticks out into the farm-studded valley below.

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View of Browntown Valley and Dickey Ridge from the overlook

Off to the east, the Blue Ridge Mountains curl north, with Dickey Ridge extending off into the distance to the park’s northern end. Across the valley lies the lengthy cast of Massanutten Mountain, itself dwarfed by the taller Great North Mountain range beyond.

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Outcrop overlook on Little Hogback

From this windy perch, backtrack a few strides and bear right as the trail continues southward. Within a minute, the path drops to within striking distance of the parking area at Little Hogback Overlook, but the AT cuts right at the last minute, descending a set of stairs below the viewpoint. The saddle between Little Hogback and its taller neighbor is laced with lovely mountain laurel.

At about 6/10 mile, with Skyline Drive still within eyeshot, hikers will begin the hardest climb of the hike: a roughly 400-foot gain in around 1/3 mile to the upper reaches of Hogback Mountain. Although switchbacks partly ease the ascent, this is easily one of the steepest stretches of trail in the park. It is over relatively quickly, however, as the path levels off before the one-mile mark.

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Steep switchbacks up Hogback Mountain

After the climb, the AT flattens out and even partly descends to a high gap on Hogback Mountain Despite being taller than Little Hogback, the views from Hogback proper are more limited. However, at 1.25 miles, the AT reaches a junction; if you stay right, the trail approaches a decent viewpoint at the local hang-gliding launch site. Although power lines detract from the charm, hikers are rewarded with sweeping views of the Browntown Valley.

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View from the hang gliding site on Hogback Mountain

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View of the summit on Hogback Mountain

Beyond the vista, the AT drops back into the woods and then weaves south, bypassing the summit of Hogback. The relatively level path rounds the mountain, then begins to descend at around 1.5 miles through a patch of mountain laurel. Skyline Drive soon reappears on the left, and the trail spills into a gravel road at 1.6 miles. Bear left on the road, then cross Skyline, eyeing the trail continuation on the other side. As the path returns to single-track, it drops down a set of stone steps.

If pursuing the full circuit, stay right at the junction with the Sugarloaf Trail. (Note: Hikers seeking a shorter loop can bear right here, cutting off a couple miles from the total hike.) From the fork, the AT stays close to Skyline Drive, rising to a decent vista at about 1.75 miles, effectively a perch looking out over the drive to the valley beyond.

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View over Skyline Drive to the Shenandoah Valley

This marks the last unobstructed view of the hike, and the AT from here descends to cross Skyline Drive again at about 1.9 miles. Stay on the trail as it skirts to the left of a parking area, a popular starting point for the lovely hike to Overall Run Falls. The relatively wide and flat track bears southwest through the thick forest, approaching another junction at 2.25 miles. Stay left, then begin to descend a long, gradual slope. The trail briefly climbs to clear a rock outcrop at about 2.6 miles, then resumes its descent, with the incline becoming more pronounced.

At 2.9 miles, hikers will cross Skyline Drive for the final time on the hike. Here the trail continues dropping, rounding bending switchbacks. At 3.1 miles, bear right onto the Piney Branch Trail. After spending most of the hike to this point amid the heights of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the Piney Branch Trail drops precipitously toward the lowlands. Following a straightaway and sharp left-hand U bend, the path descends sharply again. A long, south-bound straightaway leads to another bend, then the Piney Branch Trail descends gradually to its namesake stream.

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Crossing Piney Branch

The area around Piney Branch (or Piney River) is lush and lovely, and a smattering of rocks offers a nice place to stop for a snack. Hikers are well away from civilization by now, with the traffic of Skyline Drive drowned out by the water, wind, and some 500 feet in elevation loss. The crossing of Piney River is followed shortly by another trail junction, this one at about 4.4 miles.

Here hikers should turn left, leaving the Piney Branch Trail and entering the Pole Bridge Link Trail, effectively a connector path. The trail climbs very gradually to a low saddle, immersed in woods. Stay right at the junction with the Sugarloaf Trail at 4.9 miles. From here it is a relatively uneventful ½ mile to the Keyser Run Fire Road at the so-called Fourway junction. The trail bearing straight across the road is the Little Devils Stairs Trail—a challenging but extraordinary scenic path that features a tight canyon and seemingly endless waterfalls. (Note: See here for a hike description.)

To complete the circuit, bear left on the Keyser Run Fire Road, an overgrown gravel path that is closed to vehicles but acts as a superhighway for hikers. It is roughly one mile up the gradually sloping road, which hugs the side of the mountain. Finally, at about 6.4 miles total, the hike ends back at the Keyser Run Trailhead.

Hikers aiming to complete the full Hogback Mountain Loop should allot between 3-5 hours, depending on pace. Besides the climb between Little Hogback and Hogback, the trail is relatively mild, making the circuit a nice, moderate half-day journey.

Posted in Moderate Hikes, Shenandoah National Park, Virginia | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Riverbend Road Trail (Great Falls Park, VA)

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Riverbend Road Trail, Great Falls Park, September 2018

The Riverbend Road Trail is easily the least interesting of the hikes in northern Virginia’s Great Falls Park and is largely out of the way of the other trails in the park. Those seeking to conquer every trail in the area, however, may find some charms in this short, out-and-back jaunt. Situated in the park’s northwest corner, the single-track trail weaves through woods and across a perennial stream, connecting the parking area north of the Visitor Center with Riverbend Road.

Riverbend Road Trail hike information Great Falls Park

The hike

Because there is no evident parking along Riverbend Road, begin and end the hike along Riverbend Road Trail at the northernmost parking lot in Great Falls Park. (Note: Some will complete the hike in conjunction with the nearby Mine Run Trail.) From the parking area, a graveled road (closed to vehicles; hiking and biking only) heads off into the woods to the west, skirting the northern flank of Clay Pond. Follow this gentle path for about 1/3 mile, first passing the turnoff for the Mine Run Trail on the left, then proceeding further north—almost to the boundary of Riverbend Park—to the start of the Riverbend Road Trail. (Note: Both are marked with trail signs.)

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Gravel road

Bear left on the narrowing footpath, which starts by descending steadily to a wooded floodplain dotted with oaks, maples, chestnuts, and the occasional beech. Roughly 4/10 mile from the start, hikers will cross a small, muddy stream, then climb again to another floodplain.

 

Patches of verdant undergrowth are interspersed with relatively barren earth as the trail bobs up and down, bearing west toward the edge of the park. The trail climbs out of the woods suddenly at about the 7/10-mile mark, running under a set of power lines and approaching Riverbend Road, the terminus of the short path.

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Looking back at the trail from around Riverbend Road

From this point, return the way you came, or venture south on the lovely Mine Run Trail. If completing just the out-and-back, plan for a little less than an hour of hiking.

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Riverbend Road Trail, Great Falls Park

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Mine Run Trail (Great Falls Park, VA)

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Mine Run Trail, Great Falls Park, September 2018

The Mine Run Trail is an oft-forgotten path nestled in the northwest section of Great Falls Park, away from the namesake waterfall, Mather Gorge, and Potomac River. Mine Run, nonetheless, is a lovely tributary of the Potomac and is the highlight of this pleasant, 0.7-mile stroll. Small cascades dot the creek, shaded under a thick canopy of deciduous trees.

Mine Run Trail hike information Great Falls Park

Mine Run Trail map Great Falls Park

Map of Mine Run Trail, Great Falls Park; created using National Geographic Maps/AllTrails, alltrails.com (Check out the PDF version, interactive map, and MapMyHike track)

The hike

The Mine Run Trail is technically a one-way track, but a loop can easily be formed. Start the hike at the signed trailhead, situated virtually halfway between the north and south parking areas at Great Falls Park, roughly a ¼-mile walk up the length of the southern parking lot from the Great Falls Visitor Center.

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Start of Mine Run Trail

After leaving the road, the wide but root-laden trail bears west into the forest, with Mine Run appearing almost right away on the left. Hikers can also see a boggy depression on the right, filled with water—this is Clay Pond. Within 1/10 mile, the trail runs right up to the banks of Mine Run, which gently cascades through the greywacke.

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Mine Run along the trail

Upstream from this point, the path suddenly climbs, then approaches some steeper drops on Mine Run on the left. Around 300 yards into the hike, the path bends north, leaving Mine Run behind. However, a well-worn social trail on the left leads to the best scenery of the hike: a beautifully cascading slide of water, blighted only by the sight of a road overpass upstream.

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Beautiful slide on Mine Run

Back on the main trail, bear north as the trail continues through wooded uplands. Moss-covered rock outcrops on the right and views of a Mine Run tributary on the left offer some natural interest, but the route is relatively banal from this point. At ½ mile, the Mine Run Trail ends, merging with a gravel road running north-south. Bear right, following the road back to the northern parking lot in 2/10 mile (then walk south to return to the start), or, alternatively,  continue northward to the Riverbend Road Trail or Riverbend Park.

The Mine Run loop takes around 20-30 minutes, plus additional time to explore the lovely creek.

Extra credit

Try one of the other trail routes in Great Falls Park, including the Great Falls Overlooks, Great Falls Loop, or Patowmack Canal and Matildaville Trails.

Posted in Easy Hikes, Great Falls Park, Virginia | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Fort Circle Park Hiker-Biker Trail (Fort Circle Parks, DC)

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Fort Circle Park Hiker-Biker Trail, Fort Stanton Park, January 2019

– Civil War Series –

The Fort Circle Park Hiker-Biker Trail is part of a broader network of trails and bike routes surrounding Washington, DC that provide access to the Civil War Defenses of Washington, a ring of Civil War era fortifications. Situated east of the Anacostia River, the 6.2-mile stretch described below—unlike the rest of the larger trail network—comprises almost entirely true hiking trails through the woods, making it a more pleasant experience than tracing the sidewalks along the bustling roads of the city. Hikers are never too far away from development, however, as the hike crosses a dozen different streets and weaves through residential neighborhoods. The highlights are the relative peace and quiet of Fort Dupont Park and short spurs to six Civil War defenses: Fort Mahan, Fort Chaplin, Fort Dupont, Fort Davis, Fort Stanton, and Battery Ricketts. A principal advantage of the hike is its accessibility by Metro: the below description covers the hike from north to south, starting at Minnesota Avenue Metro station in Northeast and ending at the Anacostia Metro in Southeast DC. (Note: See here for a hiking guide by the National Park Service.)

Fort Circle Park Hiker Biker Trail blog Washington DC hike information

The hike

From the Minnesota Avenue Metro (Orange Line), head east out of the station and walk ¼ mile down Grant Street until the intersection with 42nd Street. Here you can pick up the wide, paved Fort Circle Park Hiker-Biker Trail heading south. The path begins as little more than a glorified sidewalk, following 42nd Street southward into Fort Mahan Park.

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Start of the hike at Fort Mahan Park

Fort Mahan was constructed in the first year of the Civil War to guard the entrance to Benning’s Bridge, which offered passage across the Anacostia River to central Washington, DC. It was an irregular structure with nine sides and underwent significant changes throughout the war, despite not experiencing any fighting in the war. Soldiers garrisoned at the fort were unable to view approaches to the fort from the parapet, so Union engineers spent much of the war’s length constructing additional rifle pits and small bastions to improve visibility and defend the fortification.

 

Less than a minute from the hike’s start, the path crosses a gravel road leading up to a school and baseball field, and hikers will pass the first of several trail waysides (this one Mile Marker 6.2). These regular signs feature helpful maps and trail distances. From here it is 6.2 miles to the end of the hike at Anacostia Community Museum.

Continue south as the trail climbs into the woods for the first time. (Note: The path here is asphalted but wavy, making it potentially difficult for strollers.) On the left there is a set of exercise stations, and social trails bear off from the path to the right and left. Stay on the main track as it enters an open hillside at ¼ mile. One can follow the gravel path on the right up to a field that was once the heart of Fort Mahan—although today there is little to see except a grassy knoll.

Hikers can discern the fort walls on the right, however, as the path drops back into thick woods. Soon the path breaks out into the open again and hugs the hillside as it bends westward. A fork comes at 0.35 miles, with the route continuing left. But first, head straight for a couple dozen yards to read the informational wayside on Fort Mahan, complete with a copy of a drawing from the US Army Corps of Engineers. Then return to the intersection and make your way down to Benning Road.

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Fort Mahan Park, approaching Benning Road

Cross the street, then follow the roughly asphalted footpath as it follows Flint Place. At about ½ mile, the trail merges onto a well-paved track heading left. While the map appears to show the trail continuing through the woods, the way forward is not evident: instead, follow the paved route to its end at 41st Street, which is a dead-end road. Follow the street to its mouth: an intersection with busy East Capitol Street. Exercise caution in crossing the road, then bear right, following the sidewalk west to the next mile marker sign and continuation of the trail.

From here the trail turns to dirt as it climbs south away from East Capitol. This area is Fort Chaplin Park. The primary remains of Fort Chaplin lie in the distance off to your left. This fort was built relatively late in the war—1864—to cover the flank of Fort Mahan to the north; it was never fully armed or garrisoned.

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Woods in Fort Chaplin Park

Today Fort Chaplin Park is covered in thick woods, and the path winds around a set of shady bends before descending to the next road crossing: C St. SE. Take a right on the road, following it until the appearance of the trail continuation on the left. Here the trail enters a relatively long wooded area, flanked on both sides by residential neighborhoods. Down in the gully on the left is a small stream. It is a roughly 4/10-mile walk from C St. to the next junction at the corner of Texas Avenue and Ridge Road.

The Fort Circle Park Hiker-Biker Trail continues at the corner situated diagonally opposite, requiring hikers to twice cross the busy intersection to Fort Dupont Park. (Note: There is a separate path that heads west from the northwest corner, providing access to the western part of Fort Dupont Park.)

Covering one of the most pleasant parts of the hike, the narrow footpath stays on the heights as the terrain drops significantly off to the right into a collection of woody ravines. After a left-hand bend, the trail briefly climbs, then later drops through a surprising stand of mountain laurel, which continues to stay leafy green through the winter season.

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Fort Circle Park Hiker-Biker Trail in Fort Dupont Park

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Mountain laurel in Fort Dupont Park

Now bearing east, the trail drops steeply to clear a creek bed, then climbs again and crosses a larger stream. From here the path cuts sharply back to the west, clearing the ravine and returning to the high slopes. (Note: The primary trail map from the National Park Service shows a spur trail heading south from here to the Historic Earthworks Picnic Area at Fort Dupont. This is inaccurate; the spur is situated further along the trail.)

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Stream valley in Fort Dupont Park

After rounding a long left-hand bend, the gravelly path approaches a junction. This is the unmarked turnoff for access to the earthworks of Fort Dupont. The ½-mile out-and-back spur (not included in the route total) is worth the trip, despite the relatively steep climb: Fort Dupont is relatively well-preserved and fun to explore. In its heyday, the fort featured steep sides and a protective moat and served as a sanctuary for runaway slaves escaping the South.

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Fort Dupont with earthworks beyond

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Exploring the ramparts of Fort Dupont

Returning to the main trail, bear left and follow the winding path as it drops to clear a wooden bridge. Then the trail bears uphill again and weaves southwest to meet Massachusetts Avenue. Traverse the road using the crosswalk here, briefly returning to the woods before emerging again at Fort Davis Drive. The tread on the opposite side is briefly paved as it remains out in the open before returning eventually again to dirt.

The trail in this section threads a small patch of woods in Fort Davis Park between Fort Davis Drive up to the left and residences down to the right. The route drops to cross a stream, followed by a second creek within 200 yards. Eventually the path climbs to a flat and crosses Pennsylvania Avenue, with a brief view of foliage-laden Fort Davis off to the left. This small post hosted eleven guns and a mortar and acted as an outer defense for Washington.

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Fort Davis across the road

Cross Pennsylvania Avenue to find the trail as it continues westward. This section is flat and sometimes muddy, although the terrain off to the right quickly begins to drop off into a series of ravines. (Note: The shiny, glass building on the left is the Francis A. Gregory Library.) The next road crossing is at Branch Avenue, roughly 4.3 miles from the start of the hike. Cross the street, then head straight on Park Drive, following it for roughly 100 yards. Here the trail picks back up again, heading back into the forest on the right.

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Trail continuation near Fort Davis

This section through Fort Stanton Park is relatively scenic, with a stream valley on the right and a trail that descends significantly down to streamside at about 4.9 miles. Another road crossing—28th Street SE—is just beyond. At this crossing, exit the woods and traverse the road, then bear left on the sidewalk, following it until the trail continuation appears on the right.

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Stream in Fort Stanton Park

In this next patch of the woods, the path climbs a set of stairs to exit the stream valley and then temporarily leaves the forest at the corner of 27th Street SE and Naylor Road. Cross Naylor Road at the crosswalk to find the trail continuation. The following section gains some elevation, staying high and offering some obscured views as far as the Anacostia River and downtown Washington. High rises on the right—the Marbury Plaza Apartments—eventually obstruct the views, and the trail descends a long, paved straightaway to Good Hope Road.

After crossing the street, the trail returns to dirt and traverses a relatively flat and marshy area. Eventually the flat gives way to a deep cut of ravines; with a confluence of creeks on the right, the trail crosses a pair of wooden bridges, followed by a steep uphill climb to a grassy, overgrown patch. While not visible from the trail, Fort Stanton is off to the right about a quarter mile. Named for Secretary of War Edwin Stanton, the fort was constructed in 1861 to protect the nearby Navy Yard. By February 1862, the post was fully garrisoned and armed with ten 32-pound guns.

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Wooden bridge near the southern end of the Fort Circle Park Hiker-Biker Trail

Somewhere around here the trail enters Fort Ricketts Park, the final stage of the hike. Battery Ricketts is situated at roughly the end of the hike, as the trail climbs to merge with an old gravel road that cuts through a sliver of forest. Remains of the earthworks are located directly across the road. This battery was constructed earlier in the war as well to cover a ravine that could not be defended by nearby Fort Stanton. Like most of the other forts surrounding Washington, the fort was decommissioned after the war in 1865.

At the end of the hike, the gravel road cuts left to a picnic area and playground or right to an open field and the lovely Anacostia Community Museum—the southern terminus of the Fort Circle Park Hiker-Biker Trail. From here, it is a 1.2-mile walk to the nearest metro station—Anacostia—to the northwest.

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Final stretch down to Anacostia Community Museum

For a city hike, the Fort Circle Park Hiker-Biker Trail is relatively demanding because of its length and makes for a pleasant half-day walk. Allot 3-4 hours for the entire one-way hike of 6.2 miles (and additional, ½-mile side trip to Fort Dupont), plus additional time to/from the Metro if you do not live in the area or are without a car.

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Final mile marker sign on Fort Circle Park Hiker-Biker Trail

Posted in Civil War, District of Columbia, Moderate Hikes | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Freedom Trail (Fort Raleigh National Historic Site, NC)

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Freedom Trail, Fort Raleigh National Historic Site, December 2018

– Civil War Series –

In the early stages of the Civil War in 1862, Union forces quickly seized the Outer Banks of North Carolina during the so-called Burnside Expedition, which led to the creation of a Freedmen’s Colony on Roanoke Island, a safe haven for hundreds of runaway slaves in the region. While the colony was decommissioned after the war, it remained a symbol of freedom and today is remembered as part of Fort Raleigh National Historic Site, situated on the northern tip of the island. Although the primary draw of the park is the 16th century English settlement established on Roanoke, the 1.1-mile “Freedom Trail” serves as a reminder of the island’s Civil War past. Although there are no historic traces of the Freedmen’s Colony along the trail, the wide and easy path weaves through maritime evergreen forest en route to the sea and ends at a lovely beach on the banks of Croatan Sound.

freedom trail hike information fort raleigh

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Map of Freedom Trail (red), Fort Raleigh National Historic Site

The hike

The Freedom Trail begins on the western fringe of a cul-de-sac in Fort Raleigh National Historic Site, across the circle from the entrance to the Elizabethan Gardens. (Note: It is easy to reach the trailhead from the Fort Raleigh Visitor Center by taking the northwest-bound paved path toward the gardens entrance.) The wide but unpaved trail, marked with lime green blazes, immediately dives into thick woods, an evergreen maritime forest dotted with holly, live oaks, laurel oaks, and loblolly pines. The forest here is relatively old, having recovered from previous periods when the woods were cleared for development.

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Start of Freedom Trail

Less than 100 yards into the hike, the trail traverses the paved but narrow Pear Pad Road, then continues its southwest-bound tread. About 150 yards from the road, the trail bears sharply right, following an old track southeast. Within a minute, the path cuts right again before repeating the southeast turn once more moments later. Here loblolly pines tower high above, creating a yearlong canopy.

 

At about 3/10 mile, the path resumes its southwest course and descends a long straightaway to cross Weir Point Drive. Now around ½ mile from the start, the Freedom Trail continues past the road, reentering the thick woodland. Within minutes, hikers approach a noticeably younger stand of smaller pines, and the trail cuts right. It is roughly 5-10 minutes from here to a point where the trail emerges out into the relative sun, with thick undergrowth on either site. (Note: This area is often muddy and collects puddles of rainwater.) By now hikers can hear the sounds of human development again: the whizzing of cars on US Route 64 to the south.

At the 1-mile mark, the trail splits, and one can sense that the shores of Croatan Sound are near. Heading straight offers the quickest access to the beach—less than 150 yards to the wind-swept shores. Here one can peer across the sound to mainland North Carolina, and all of the William B. Umstead Memorial Bridge is in view. This vista also roughly marks the point where the Croatan Sound merges with the larger Albemarle Sound to the north.

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Croatan Sound from near the end of the Freedom Trail

 

Off to the south, hikers can spot a parking area with historical markers: this is the official end of the Freedom Trail. Access from the beach, however, depends on the height of the tides—a thin strip of land separates the sea from a small tidal pool and is potentially passable. However, even at low tide, it is thick with reeds and not recommended.

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View toward the parking area

Instead, backtrack to the trail junction at the 1-mile mark and bear right, following the relatively narrow path around the tidal pool. The path ends at the small lot just off Route 64. Here there is a large historical wayside dedicated to the story of the Naval Battle of Roanoke Island.

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Historical wayside

The bulk of this battle—a clear Union victory on February 7-8, 1862—took place further south, with Gen. Ambrose Burnside’s forces overwhelming the small and underprepared Confederate contingent on the island. The island would remain in Union hands for the remainder of the war, which made possible the establishment of the Freedmen’s Colony for runaway slaves and enabled future Union offensives on the mainland.

After taking in the sights, head back the way you came to complete the roughly 1-1.5 hour out-and-back hike.

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Pond formed by overflow from Croatan Sound

Extra Credit

Walk amid the forest explored by English scientist Thomas Hariot during his expedition to Roanoke Island in 1585-86 on the 3/10-mile Thomas Hariot Trail.

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Thomas Hariot Trail (Fort Raleigh National Historic Site, NC)

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Thomas Hariot Trail, Fort Raleigh National Historic Site, December 2018

Now a bustling tourist site on North Carolina’s Outer Banks, Roanoke Island was the site of the first English settlement in the New World, established in 1585. For one of the expeditions to the island, English explorers brought along Thomas Hariot, a talented scientist and mathematician tasked with studying and cataloguing the natural resources of the area. Having studied the local Algonquian language before his arrival, Hariot played a pivotal role in establishing positive relations with the resident Carolina Algonquians and recorded extensive accounts of the Native Americans’ customs before returning to England in 1586. Today, a short nature trail in Fort Raleigh National Historic Site is named in his honor, and the path passes through wooded terrain similar to what Hariot observed during his short visit.

thomas hariot trail hike information fort raleigh nature trail

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Map of Thomas Hariot Trail, Fort Raleigh National Historic Site

The hike

Fort Raleigh National Historic Site is located near the northwest tip of Roanoke Island, three miles from Manteo, North Carolina. The park preserves the site of the first English settlement and also serves as a commemoration to later events, including the establishment of a large Freedmen’s Colony for runaway slaves during the Civil War.

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Monument marking the first English Colony in North America and first American-born English child

To reach the short Thomas Hariot Trail, park at the Fort Raleigh Visitor Center, located along a circle drive in the heart of the National Historic Site. Bearing right, behind the visitor center, follow the paved track as it passes the 1896 monument, dedicated to Virginia Dare, who became the first English child born on American soil in 1587.  Beyond the monument, continue to the Reconstructed Earthen Fort—a reconstruction of an old structure thought to be part of the English Colony. From here, the dirt Thomas Hariot Trail begins off to the left.

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Reconstructed Earthen Fort at Fort Raleigh

Following the signs for the “Thomas Hariot Nature Trail,” the path passes an interpretive sign and map on the right and then approaches the edge of dense woods. Stay straight at the first fork and take the right-most track as it climbs into the forest. Here a wayside invites hikers to “join the exploration party” by imagining that you are on the expedition with Hariot and his Algonquian guides back in 1585.

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Thomas Hariot Trail

In contrast to the wind- and salt-swept islands further east, the loblolly pines, laurel oaks, and live oaks here on Roanoke Island grow relatively tall. The maritime evergreen forest is quiet and serene, a peaceful contrast to the often-bustling tourist traps on the Outer Banks.

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Banks of Albemarle Sound

At about 1/10 mile, a short spur trail on the right provides access down to the shores of Albemarle Sound, which feeds into the Atlantic Ocean and dominates northeast North Carolina. Off to the right is Roanoke Sound, a feeder of Albemarle and the primary barrier between Roanoke Island and the outer shores.

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Viewpoint of Albemarle Sound

Back up on the main trail, the path snakes around to a shaded viewpoint of the sound that is encircled by a group of wily live oak trees. A small wooden bench offers a chance to sit and take in the lovely scenery and makes for a nice spot to watch the sun rise or set (at least in winter, when the sun stays farther north).

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Live oaks along the Thomas Hariot Trail

Beyond the viewpoint, the Thomas Hariot Trail begins to bear westward, then south, through dark woods. Vines lace the tree trunks, and a thick understory forms. Soon enough, the path wraps back around to the initial junction—bear left here, then take a quick right, following the initial path back to the start of the hike. (Note: Or conversely, follow one of the many alternative trails heading west toward the Elizabethan Gardens or east to the Waterside Theatre on the banks of Albermarle Sound.)

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Thomas Hariot Trail

The entire hike takes 10-20 minutes, depending on pace.

Posted in Easy Hikes, North Carolina, Outer Banks | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Buxton Woods Trail (Cape Hatteras National Seashore, NC)

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Buxton Woods Trail, Cape Hatteras National Seashore, December 2018

Situated on Hatteras Island in North Carolina’s Outer Banks, Buxton Woods is one of the last undeveloped forests in the area and remains rich in plant and animal life. The Buxton Woods Trail in Cape Hatteras National Seashore provides a short preview of the terrain, forming a 7/10-mile stem-and-loop through the maritime forest. Countless signs provide interpretation of the local wildlife and tell the story of an environment constantly being shaped by the harsh elements: wind, water, and salt.

buxton woods trail hike information cape hatteras

The hike

The Buxton Woods Trail begins at the Buxton Woods Picnic Area, situated just down the road from the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. Once driving south on Lighthouse Road, you will enter Cape Hatteras National Seashore, and the town of Buxton will give way to a dense thicket of greenery. Stay straight at the turnoff for the lighthouse, then pull into the parking area on your right: this is the picnic area. There are a handful of picnic tables at the site, as well as a large dumpster for food and trash.

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Start of Buxton Woods Nature Trail

The well-signed Buxton Woods Trail takes off from here, leaving the road behind in favor of a canopy of live oaks. The sandy path climbs gradually as the tree life diversifies: oaks, loblolly pines, bayberry trees, hornbeams, and occasional dogwoods dot the landscape. A couple minutes into the hike, traces of water come into view on the right: this freshwater marsh is called a “sedge”—a pond-filled depression between old beach ridges. In fact, the woods here used to be entirely sand dunes until finally stabilizing, which allowed trees and shrubs to grow.

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Buxton Woods Trail approaching a freshwater pond

Roughly 250 yards from the start, the Buxton Woods Trail splits, marking the start of the loop section. Bearing right first, the wide and easy path skirts the banks of Jennette’s Sedge, a reed-filled freshwater pond on the right.

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Jennette’s Sedge

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Jennette’s Sedge

After the quarter-mile mark, a short wooden boardwalk provides passage over the creeping marsh, and occasional dwarf palmettos can be spotted along the trail. From here the trail leaves the water behind and begins to bend back to the south and west. The woods in this area have benefited from a relatively moderate climate—the buffer of the Pamlico Sound (to the north) helps Hatteras Island avoid extreme highs or lows. However, other elements stunt the development of the forest, including high winds and salt spray. Thus, the trees in this area rarely reach tall heights, and salt has clearly provided the death knell for certain patches of woods. (Note: Buxton Woods has also faced the threat of human development, but plans to build additional housing and a golf course in the area were thwarted by locals in the 1980s.)

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Boardwalk

Despite the difficult conditions for plant life, fauna thrives in the forest, from warblers, woodpeckers, and thrushes to squirrels, white tail deer, foxes, and river otters. Rattlesnakes and cottonmouths are common (but fortunately rarely bite unless provoked). Bald eagles and peregrine falcons have also been sighted from time to time.

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Yaupon holly

At 4/10 mile, another, smaller swamp appears on the right, and hikers will shortly thereafter pass a colorful yaupon shrub on the left that sports bright red berries. Weaving amid the relatively dense vegetation, the trail returns to the initial fork at just under 6/10 mile. From here, head back the way you came, following the wide path under the canopy of live oaks again to return to the Buxton Woods Picnic Area. All told, the hike covers 7/10 mile and requires about 30-45 minutes to complete.

Posted in Easy Hikes, North Carolina, Outer Banks | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Top 10 Hikes in 2018

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Whiteoak Canyon Trail, Shenandoah National Park, April 2018

The start of the new year offers a time to reflect on the year that was: although other commitments slowed my rate of production in 2018, I still managed to add 37 new posts during the year to Live and Let Hike. Like usual, the quest for hiking had me crisscrossing the country in 2018—from New Hampshire in May to Colorado in September. Most posts, though, featured day hikes closer to home, many from a series of trips through the Mid-Atlantic region, including jaunts in Maryland, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, and Virginia. The Civil War and Revolutionary War series continued to expand, and readership crested new heights with more than 173,000 page views throughout the year (although barely surpassing 2017’s total of 167,000).

In 2018, the top 5 most visited posts (excluding the home page) were all from my previous years living out West: (1) Top 10 Hikes in Capitol Reef National Park’s “Frontcountry”; (2) Top 10 Hikes in Capitol Reef National Park’s “Backcountry”; (3) Peekaboo and Spooky Gulch Loop (Grand Staircase-Escalante NM, UT); (4) ; and Chesler Park Loop Trail, including Joint Trail (Canyonlands National Park, UT); and (5) Capitol Reef Hiking Guide.

This year’s top-viewed posts, however, were all from hikes within a couple hours’ drive of Washington, DC: (1) Big Devils Stairs (Shenandoah National Park, VA); (2) Whiteoak Canyon – Cedar Run Trail Loop (Shenandoah National Park, VA); (3) Duncan Knob and Strickler Knob Loop (George Washington National Forest, VA); (4) Billy Goat Trail – Section C (Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historical Park, MD); and (5) Mount Marshall Loop (Shenandoah National Park, VA).

As is tradition, below is a review of my top ten favorite hikes completed in 2018, ranked in reverse order.

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Tracks in the Sand Trail, Jockey’s Ridge State Park, December 2018

10. Tracks in the Sand Trail (Jockey’s Ridge State Park, NC)

An unusual pick for a non-beach goer, but Jockey’s Ridge on the Outer Banks of North Carolina is no ordinary beach: this underrated state park features the highest sand dunes on the East Coast. The Tracks in the Sand Trail treks through the heart of the sunny dune field, which can feel like an otherworldly experience for those used to hiking on hard-packed trails amid tall trees. The stem-and-loop hike is good for families and includes a visit to the shores of windy Roanoke Sound.

See my post on December 29, 2018 for a full trail description.

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Mount Marshall Loop, Shenandoah National Park, June 2018

9. Mount Marshall Loop (Shenandoah National Park, VA)

Mount Marshall—named for the famed Chief Justice—is one of the highest in Shenandoah National Park’s North District and offers two excellent vistas in a park largely shrouded in dense forest. The 13-mile Mount Marshall Loop, which includes the Bluff Trail and a section of the Appalachian Trail, makes for a long but relatively mild day hike.

See my post on September 26, 2018 for a full trail description.

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Upper Fisk Creek Falls Trail, Routt National Forest, September 2018

8. Upper Fish Creek Falls (Routt National Forest, CO)

September brought me to the Steamboat Springs area in northern Colorado, which boasts Fish Creek Falls, the second-highest waterfall in the state. While the lower falls are the primary draw, a longer, 4.2-mile out-and-back offers access to the more secluded Upper Fish Creek Falls, situated in a hanging valley in the Park Range. The hike also features beautiful aspen groves and tremendous views down toward Steamboat.

See my post on December 29, 2018 for a full trail description.

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Mount Tammany Trail, Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, May 2018

7. Mount Tammany Loop (Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, NJ)

At Delaware Water Gap, the Delaware River separates Pennsylvania from New Jersey and carves a picturesque cut through the Kittatinny Mountain range. One of the most popular hikes in Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, the Mount Tammany Loop climbs to one of the area’s highest viewpoints. The excellent vista offers a bird’s eye view of the gap, while the start of the hike strolls along a charming stream with minor cascades.

See my post on September 20, 2018 for a full trail description.

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Rabbit Ears Peak Trail, Routt National Forest, September 2018

6. Rabbit Ears Peak Trail (Routt National Forest, CO)

One of the most iconic sights of the Steamboat Springs area, Rabbit Ears Peak—topped with volcanic crags—is a stone’s throw from the Continental Divide and overlooks vast valleys to the north and south. A moderately difficult climb of 2.6 miles (one-way) leads through open meadows and pine forests to the summit.

See my post on December 29, 2018 for a full trail description.

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Mount Monadnock, Monadnock State Park, May 2018

5. Mount Monadnock via White Dot Trail (Monadnock State Park, NH)

On a clear day, hikers can see all the way to Boston from the top of New Hampshire’s Mount Monadnock, one of the most-climbed peaks in the world. Derived from an Abenaki word, “monadnock” is used by geologists to describe a mountain that stands alone, rising abruptly from a plain and separate from a broader mountain range. That means 360 panoramic views from the windy summit—a destination that requires conquering around 1,800 feet in elevation gain in less than two miles.

See my post on August 11, 2018 for a full trail description.

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Big Devils Stairs, Shenandoah National Park, March 2018

4. Big Devils Stairs (Shenandoah National Park, VA)

Situated in Shenandoah’s North District, Big Devils Stairs is a wildly scenic series of cascades that tumbles southward through a stony gorge. While the hike to an overlook overlooking the canyon is a worthy enough endeavor, the real treat lies in the off-trail, rugged climb back to the top, best completed in early spring when the water levels are high and there is less foliage to block the way. This alternative route involves scrambling and creek-hopping amid the beautiful cascades and high canyon walls.

See my post on April 8, 2018 for a full trail description.

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Strickler Knob, George Washington National Forest, April 2018

3. Duncan Knob and Strickler Knob Loop (George Washington National Forest, VA)

Duncan Knob and Strickler Knob are two of the most stunning summits along lengthy Massanutten Mountain in northern Virginia and can be reached in one long and relatively strenuous loop hike. A minor rock scramble is required to reach the top of Duncan Knob, while the spur to Strickler Knob seems to go on forever—but visitors are rewarded with fantastic views of the Shenandoah Valley and mid-Appalachians. Definitely one of Virginia’s best hikes.

See my post on July 7, 2018 for a full trail description.

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Hahns Peak Trail, Routt National Forest, September 2018

2. Hahns Peak Trail (Routt National Forest, CO)

When viewed from below, the volcanic summit of Hahns Peak appears to be an intimidating challenge, towering over the Yampa River Valley in northern Colorado. Yet reaching the summit requires less than two miles of hiking and a relatively modest ascent. From the lookout tower at the top, panoramic views unfold of the Elkhead Mountains, Park Range, and Steamboat Lake.

See my post on December 28, 2018 for a full trail description.

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Whiteoak Canyon Trail, Shenandoah National Park, April 2018

1. Whiteoak Canyon – Cedar Run Trail Loop (Shenandoah National Park, VA)

Never mind the sizeable crowds on most days, Shenandoah’s Whiteoak Canyon-Cedar Run Loop is hands-down one of the best hikes in Virginia—and perhaps the Mid-Atlantic region. Especially in spring, the circuit’s bevy of splendid waterfalls and high canyon walls are simply stunning: what Whiteoak Canyon offers in awe-inspiring falls, Cedar Run matches with serenity and majestic cascades. Visitors will have to work, however: the hike climbs all the way from the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains to Skyline Drive at the top, gaining more than 2,000 feet in elevation.

See my post on July 9, 2018 for a full trail description.

Honorable Mention:

Posted in Colorado, Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, Easy Hikes, George Washington National Forest, Moderate Hikes, New Hampshire, New Jersey, North Carolina, Outer Banks, Routt National Forest, Shenandoah National Park, Strenuous Hikes, Virginia | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Soundside Nature Trail (Jockey’s Ridge State Park, NC)

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Soundside Nature Trail, Jockey’s Ridge State Park, December 2018

Although lacking the allure of the nearby Tracks in the Sand Trail, the Soundside Nature Trail in North Carolina’s Jockey’s Ridge State Park offers a pleasant and easy stroll through diverse terrain. The dunes of Jockey’s Ridge—the highest on the East Coast—are visible from the path, but the circuit hike largely keeps its distance from them in favor of maritime thicket. Spur trails offer access to the shores of windy Roanoke Sound.

Soundside Nature Trail Jockeys Ridge State Park hike information

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Map of Soundside Nature Trail, Jockey’s Ridge State Park

The hike

Unlike other routes in the park, reaching the trailhead for the Soundside Nature Trail requires leaving the park and driving around to the southern end of Jockey’s Ridge. From Croatan Highway in Nags Head, bear west on Soundside Road, a semi-residential drive. Just as the road begins to bend southward, take a right into the signed parking area.

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Start of the Soundside Nature Trail

It’s hard to miss the trail’s start, which is marked with a large sign complete with a small map. Just steps from the beginning, however, the trail reaches its first junction—a winding bend offers access to the left or right. Stay right—following the plastic stakes with directional arrows—to traverse the circuit in a counterclockwise direction. This part of the hike is relatively open, with brush giving way to thick clumps of sand.

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View toward the high dunes of Jockey’s Ridge

At around 150 yards, the route splits again. Meandering off to the right offers access to the high dunes in the distance, while the trail bears left and narrows to a single-track. On the left is a small marsh, overgrown with tall grasses. About 250 yards from the start, the path bears left and traverses a pair of wooden bridges. The terrain beyond is dominated by loblolly pines, as well as red bay, wax myrtle, live oak, and the occasional juniper.

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Bridges over marshy area

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Under a live oak tree

After 3/10 miles, the trail approaches a boardwalk and tall set of stairs, climbing to surmount a minor ridgeline. From there it is down again, dropping to an open area that resembles a sand superhighway. Bear left (following the arrows), then explore the spur trail heading off to the right: this path provides access to the shores of Roanoke Sound. This namesake body of water separates the Outer Banks from Roanoke Island and feeds into the larger Albemarle Sound.

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Roanoke Sound from a spur off the Soundside Nature Trail

Returning to the main trail, bear right and follow the path as it reenters the brush, following an old jeep track. A four-way junction at ½ mile offers access again to the shores of Roanoke Sound. The final stretch of trail traverses grass-laced terrain amid relatively high trees and shrubs. With the parking area back in sight, the track bears left, but a clearing provides access straight back to your car.

This short jaunt—good for kids and dog walkers—lasts 20-30 minutes and clocks in at a modest 6/10 mile.

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